Introducing Rappahannock Rose, our restaurant reviewer: Sunday Brunch at The Mimslyn Inn in Luray, VA
Review by Rappahannock Rose
Newly refurbished and reawakened, The Mimslyn Inn in Luray has opened with gusto. As with any new restaurant, there will be slip-ups and lessons to be learned. The Mimslyn Inn seems to understand that fact, as two recent visits to its Circa ‘31 Restaurant indicate.
First, a little background: The Mimslyn Inn was the most elegant “resort” in the Shenandoah Valley when it was opened in 1931. Over the next several decades it remained the place for local events and people traveled from all over the eastern seaboard to stay in its luxury suites and experience the clean mountain air and enjoy fine dining.
But like any grand dame that is neglected, she fell from favor and was more of a sad memory than a place to enjoy. Then in 2005 the Asam family from Shepherdstown, WVA came to her rescue.
The Asams already had 25 years of experience in running and expanding their inn–The Bavarian Inn, which coincidentally was built in 1930–so they knew what to do. A complete refurbishing, not just a fluff and buff, was needed.
Completely remodeled rooms, elegant fabrics and carpets in the dining room and oriental rugs over hardwood floors in the lobby, wonderful welcoming colors and just the right amount of crystal on the new chandeliers…voila! Locals can be heard “ooing and aahing” over the improvements but seasoned travelers who are expecting something like the Homestead will be disappointed. The Mimslyn doesn’t seem to strive for that level anyway, yet they have found a happy medium.
A spa is being planned for the lower level which already houses a “Speakeasy Bar and Restaurant.” Brochures mention conventions, parties and weddings. The staff is trying hard to catch up; it will be interesting to see it all come together.
During my first visit for Sunday brunch there were more slip-ups and near-misses than not. Those started with the sign on Route 211 West, telling me to go 4 miles and turn right on Business 211. There was no road at 4 miles, left or right, and a turn would have put me in a farmer’s field. On a second visit a few weeks later, the sign was still there. (I did mention it to the desk person.)
But it is the food experience that is the point of the trip. Sunday Brunch starts at 10:30 a.m. and ends at 2:30 p.m. Those hours cover an early eater’s brunch and the rest of the crowd’s lunch or a heavier Sunday midday meal.
In true Southern fashion, The Mimslyn Inn has them all covered. You absolutely can not leave hungry.
Choices for the brunch crowd include omelets to order, potatoes in a style that changes each Sunday, sausage, bacon, pork loin, and sausage gravy and biscuits. On both visits my old-time favorite sausage gravy and biscuits were not hot enough for me to try them. But a sampling of the gravy took me back 50 years and rivaled my mother’s best sausage gravy! Memo to staff: You have to keep those Sterno cans going!
Temperature was the main culprit for most of my disappointments. On one visit the shepherd’s pie had over-cooked on the buffet line and turned to goop. On another visit a fish dish was cold and the sauce had started to congeal.
The later lunch crowd has much to choose from on the buffet line. I am not that big an eater at 10:30 in the morning, but small samples showed some hits and some misses.
A truly delicious dish that was unusual for a brunch was a duck and chicken cannelloni. A hit. (This is also on the regular dinner menu and this was Sunday.) Another hit was a very spicy shrimp and sausage jambalaya.
The misses were the Shepherd’s pie and the sausage gravy and biscuits that were cold. Other misses were over-cooked Brussels sprouts and bland peas and mushrooms.
But a wonderfully seasoned, thick-with-sauce scalloped potatoes dish had me coming back for a second bite. There is a starter table of salads, fruit and seafood chowder and a small table of desserts that were okay but nothing to write about.
But there is so much more, who can complain? Service is still hit-or-miss. On one visit, the waitresses were all huddled in the front of the dining room complaining about where guests had been seated. No one wants to hear that.
On another visit my Bloody Mary was delayed and the waitress apologized that the bartender had to take care of some computer thing or the other and would be right back. What?
This foodie will be back. There are many things going for this restaurant’s Sunday brunch and it seems they are really trying to correct the misses. It will be fun watching it find its groove!
The Mimslyn Inn is in Luray at 401 West Main Street. The brunch is $19.95 and a bargain if you try to sample everything. Reservations recommended; call 800/296-5105.
Rose’s rating of The Mimslyn Inn, on her scale of roses (one=mediocre; two=good; three=very good; four=superior)
Rappahannock Rose is a county resident who wishes to remain unidentified so that restaurants will not recognize her and give her special treatment to win a favorable review. RappVoice welcomes reader comment or reaction to her reviews; use the comment form below.
Comments
Comment from Pam Owen
Time: February 22, 2008, 10:41 am
A welcome addition to your e-newspaper, Jim. I’m always searching for new places to eat or wanting to hear the scoop when restaurants change ownership or menus. Rose has nicely filled that gap, and now we all can speculate on just who this is. Do you think she (if she is a she) can keep this a secret for long in our chatty little county? Who wants to lay bets? ;~}
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