Flint Hill’s Public House: Serving good food to too-few people, says Rappahannock Rose
By Rappahannock Rose
People in Rappahannock County and nearby must not dine out on Monday nights. Otherwise why would a restaurant that has a short but interesting menu, prepares dishes to perfection, has one of the best wine lists in this part of Virginia ($5 and up per glass) and is in a quaint historic school house, fail to attract customers?
Why aren’t foodies flocking to The Public House in Flint Hill to sample deliciously prepared, seasonally appropriate appetizers like fresh asparagus in a flaky pastry ($8), grilled artichokes over fresh baby greens in a balsamic vinaigrette ($7); savory bread pudding with mushrooms and sage ($9), all in addition to the regular Caesar salad ($6) and daily soup choice($5)?
How can a restaurant in a county which is down to only a handful of dining options still not bring in the crowds? Even on a recent Friday evening, the “crowd” between 6:30 and 8 p.m. consisted of three couples–six diners–sitting in a quiet dining room surrounded by empty tables.
It can’t be the fault of the spectacular sirloin which friends always rave about, which they say is grilled, seasoned and prepared to perfection ($26). It certainly couldn’t be the wonderful braised pork loin dish on the new spring menu which blends olives, raisins and garlic over a 2 inch high pork loin, tender enough for a fork ($24). The asparagus and goat cheese risotto ($19) couldn’t be the culprit–the diners next to me raved about it.
I know I left totally pleased with the pasta on the new spring menu, which is shrimp and scallops over ziti ($18), highly seasoned and al dente. It took all of my bread and a spoon to get every last morsel of sauce. Nothing was left. Yum!
But how come I was almost alone in the dining room? Where are the neighbors from Rappahannock and Warren and Fauquier? With gas prices so high it would make sense to stay close to home and Flint Hill is close to home for anyone in the three counties!
It has to be hard to make a decision to stay open on a night that one knows may not even cover the bills. John and Denise Pearson already have decided to close on Tuesday nights in addition to their traditional Wednesdays. That made sense when Four and Twenty Blackbirds was in business just down the street and took off Mondays and Tuesdays. But now Four and Twenty is gone and one would think there would be enough patrons to fill a room.
There are signs that the Public House is struggling financially. As of April 1, the restaurant owners decided not to renew their liquor license–meaning it’s no longer possible to order cocktails before dinner–apparently to save the $1,500 cost of the license.
In their case that is not such a dilemma for their patrons, as they truly have one of the most extensive wine lists in Virginia and always rotate by the glass selections to compliment the seasonally changing menu. Extensive means just that: over 400 bottles ranging from $16 to $525(!) including over 40 Virginia wines. Plus the Public House was one of the first restaurants in the area (without 5 stars) to pour wine into the perfectly matched glasses.
Rose can’t wait for the warm spring nights so the Public House can open its wonderful back patio. What a great treat to dine outdoors overlooking a beautifully landscaped vista while enjoying a delicious dinner and a great glass of wine!
The future of the restaurant is uncertain, as the building and four acres of grounds remain up for sale (at an asking price of $1.1 million, which has had no takers in the past year). The Pearsons rent the property, so a sale might mean a change in use; the property is being marketed by Amissville Realtor Julie Emery, not as a going business but as a commercial property that might fit numerous uses.
The Public House has three dining rooms and welcomes large parties or groups for meetings. Catering services are also available. Lunch is served Monday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday 11:30 to 2:00. Dinner is served 5:30 to 9 p.m. and Sundays 4 to 8 p.m. but call first! 540-675-1700. The restaurant is located at 675 Zachary Taylor Highway (Route 522) in the village of Flint Hill, VA.
Rose gives The Public House two roses for food, three roses for wine and one rose for indoor dining décor. (With the building up for sale, the decor won’t be fluffed up anytime soon.)
The author, who lives in Rappahannock but wishes to remain anonymous, is the Rappahannock Voice’s restaurant reviewer. Rappvoice welcomes reader comments on the reviews; use the form below.
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Comment from Brad Schneider
Time: May 24, 2008, 7:02 am
The thing about Public House not getting enough guests is in my opinion that most people don’t even know that it is a restaurant. You would not know it by driving by, the sign is not indicative of the fact that it is a resturant, changing that could help with regards to people passing through Flint Hill looking for a place to dine.
I don’t know their situation with regards to advertising, but maybe they need to let more peole know, via this medium and the paper, etc. And how about getting one of the food critics from the Washington Post to do a review, or maybe that has been done.
We have eaten there and I do agree the food was wonderful, the wine selection was nice and the service very good. I would recommend it to friends and have taken business clients there.
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